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The
Need
It all seems simple, doesn’t
it? You’re going to head out across the
water and you need some sort of boat. As
long as it will get you there it doesn’t have to be big or broad or
beautiful. It just needs to be
sufficiently seaworthy to rest your mind a little. Ah, but what a
deceptive word:
seaworthy. At the end of the day,
seaworthy is all about safety and comfort is not a big part of the
equation.
The open ocean is where
seaworthiness is truly tested and this voyage in Kobuk will not involve
much of
that. Ocean passages are there waiting
to be done, but they will be in the tropics where temperatures are warm
and
storms are few and they will be day passages between islands or coastal
ports where
the chance of getting caught in adverse conditions is less than on a
lengthy
ocean crossing. It still can happen but
it is less likely to happen and if it does there is some reason to hope
that
you can make emergency radio contact with someone helpful or that other
boats
will be passing by. All in all, getting
on a boat is a risk, but life-threatening risks are less on rivers and
in
coastal waters than they are hundreds of miles from land.
All of this is justification for selecting a
boat that cannot claim to be seaworthy in the eyes of the master
mariner who
knows the ferocity of the open sea. In
short, Kobuk is held to different standards of seaworthiness than those
expected by Joshua
Slocum of Spray or Harry
Pidgeon of Islander.
About
half the projected voyage
will be on fresh water where sensible and accurate navigation is far
more
critical than hull sturdiness or astute boat handling.
The first line of defense will be caution—and
especially navigational caution. The
biggest risks are likely to be unpredictable currents, submerged
hazards, nasty
lake chop, and sudden microbursts—all of which have the ability to do
Kobuk in
but none of which need be deadly if speed and course are chosen by a
timid
person.
At
the
other end of the spectrum,
Kobuk will be expected to spend about fifteen percent of her time doing
ocean
passages where the risk of an open boat getting swamped is somewhat
magnified. It is also a time when Kobuk
will need to run an adaptive course, avoiding direct strikes against
lumpy
water and generally seeking out the path of least abuse.
These concerns must weigh in the choice of a
boat design, but the compromise should be one in which the final
product
handles well on the inland waters and behaves merely tolerably on the
open sea.
Every
boat design is a compromise,
of course, so the grander task is to know the strengths and weaknesses
and
steer the final product clear of the latter. If
you have a dear friend who finds it hard to tell the
truth about
anything having to do with money, it is best to avoid that particular
topic if
you are looking for the truth. So too
with a boat: if she doesn’t like to see waves climbing up her stern you
look
for ways to keep her clear of that particular situation.
When
I
started looking for a design
for Kobuk I was most concerned with finding something that would be (1)
cheap
and easy to build, (2) small enough to be handled by a single person,
(3)
capable of operating in shallows, and (4) sufficiently sturdy to ride
out rough
water. These are the things I worried
about most, and I generally worried about them in the specified order. Fortunately, the first two are not
incompatible. Every foot of additional
boat length would, I knew, astronomically increase the cost of
construction and
the total time needed to do the building. Enthusiasm
declines with age and so when in my early
fifties I decided
to take on this project I no longer had a compulsion to undertake
something
grand. A small, simple boat would
do.
Since
river running is a more or
less continuous gauntlet of submerged snags and hidden hazards—even in
flat
water areas—there seemed to be a real advantage associated with shallow
draft. It would of course keep the
vessel on the surface where the grasping current might only hope to
scrabble
with its fingertips, but to my mind the bigger advantage would be the
lower
risk of an unseen boulder or floating log or submerged reservoir stump
punching
a hole in the hull’s thin skin. But very
shallow draft means that a boat is beamy and flat-bottomed, and this
often
translates into a very harsh motion in rough water. A compromise
would have to be made.
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River Rat
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CHARACTERISTICS
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Length overall
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20'-2"
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Beam
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8'-0"
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Hull draft
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11"
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Freeboard forward
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3'-0"
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Freeboard aft
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2'-0"
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Average passengers
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2-4
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Hull depth midship
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3'-3"
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Hull weight (approx.)
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1100
lbs.
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Displacement
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3040
lbs.
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Cockpit size
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13'-6"
x 6'-0"
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Hull type: Modified sled garvey
with 12o deadrise. Developed for sheet plywood or aluminum
planking with built-in chine flat spray rail.
Power: Single or twin long
shaft outboard motors; 50 hp minimum, 100 hp will suffice for general
use, with higher hp optional. Inboard stern mounted engine coupled to
an inboard/outboard or jet pump are optional. Maximum weight of 1000
lbs. An engine in the 300 hp range should be ideal for most purposes.
V-drive can also be used but not detailed.
Can the hull be extended or
shortened? Yes. Up to 10% as detailed in the plans. We do not recommend
increasing the beam.
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Picking a Plan
When
I
first started poking around
in my search for a suitable boat design I discovered Glen-L Marine, a California
company that specializes in selling boat plans to home builders.
They sell plans for most any kind of boat you
might ever think of building, and all their plans are tailored to the
limited
skills and resources of the typical amateur builder. Two
different boats in their catalog caught
my attention and for some months I struggled to make a choice.
One
was the River Rat, a 19’
runabout that it appeared could be lengthened somewhat without much
additional
work. It was promoted as a cruising
boat, but it looked as if a cabin and bunk could be added without risk
of
compromising the hull.
The
other was a very popular Glen-L
design called the Cabin Skiff. This was a
fascinating little craft—a mini-cruiser only 17’ in length with a cabin
and a
bunk and an intriguing method of construction called “stitch and
glue.”
Stitch and glue construction is revolutionary
because it eliminates the need to build a framework for the boat: no
keel and
no ribs. The hull is planked in
plywood. Ply sheets are butt joined to
make a long strip that is then cut to a shape specified on a large
piece of
paper (much like a seamstress cutting a pattern for a dress).
Fabricate another such strip cut in mirror
image and—voila!—you have the two halves of the hull. To
assemble, you stitch the two strips
together using cheap copper wire and then slather the stitched seams
with very
powerful glue that holds the entire boat together. The wire has
no structural importance. It simply holds the hull together while
you
apply the glue. The whole job can be
done on the garage floor, even if it isn’t flat.
The
Cabin Skiff has enormous
advantages. In addition to being quick
and easy to build, it is very light (because it has no heavy structural
members) and can therefore be pushed at good speed with a relatively
small outboard
engine. This would be a very economical
design for the trip I had in mind and, besides, I find innovative
technologies
like stitch and glue almost impossible to resist. Nevertheless,
in the end I reluctantly opted
for the more traditionally constructed River Rat.
The
River Rat, I decided, would
have just enough additional size to accommodate an inboard engine and
water jet
propulsion system—and I very much wanted to use this sort of power
train for
two reasons. The obvious one is that a
jet draws no water and its impellors are almost totally protected from
damage
(although fouling with rope or weeds or the like is not
uncommon).
This struck me as a great, good thing because
it would mean that nothing protrudes below the hull which can therefore
be
navigated in as little as a foot of water. Such
a boat could even negotiate small rapids.
The
second reason has nothing to do
with jet drives and has a lot to do with childhood. As a youth my
father had a little Penn Yan rocket
with a towering, black, 90-horsepower Mercury outboard hanging heavily
on the
transom. At that time—in the 50’s—it was
the meanest, fastest boat around, but there was a gleaming mahogany
Chris Craft
kept in an expensive boathouse at the other end of the lake and I
secretly
lusted after the deep rumble of its powerful engine. At the time
I feigned disdain for this
underperforming piece of affluence, but in my heart I loved to listen
to its
gurgling idle at the dock and its baritone roar under way. Now in
these later years speed is less
important to me and the sound of an inboard has been calling, calling.
It
also seemed that the River Rat
would be a reasonably tough and sturdy boat. It
would be entirely glued together—just as with a stitch
and glue
project—but it also would have a keel and ribs and stringers that I
could
slightly oversize without adding a significant amount of weight.
All boats are more or less eggshells if they
strike immovable objects while afloat, but I should think that a
heavier
structural system would be less susceptible to the wracking and
twisting and
pounding that any hull must put up with in rough water. On rivers
and protected waters, I thought,
either design would work sufficiently well, but in rougher conditions
the
heavier construction of the River Rat might be an advantage. This
thinking was exactly opposite that of
the promotional literature, for River Rat was billed as a specialized
river
craft whereas the Cabin Skiff was praised for its all-purpose
nature.
I was able to convince myself of the
contrary, however.
I
had mulled over these
considerations for some months when in the late summer of 1995 I found
myself
driving a U-Haul truck from Texas
to Colorado. Alone in the cab with nothing but
my thoughts
to keep me company, I stopped at a gas station in the lonesome Texas
panhandle
and placed a call to Glen-L Marine to order the River Rat plans.
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